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You Wont Have Any "Fun, Fun, Fun" in Your Vehicle Until PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 31 July 2008 15:00

…your carbon kids are taken away. In fact, your will be spending your “mun, mun, mun” until those skuzzy little rebels are removed.

Remember the good old days when you drove your brand new vehicle off the lot -- the engine purred like a kitten, responded to your slightest touch, you got the miles per gallon claimed on the sticker, and driving was something you looked forward to? You may have even enjoyed being nominated the “designated” driver.

A few months later, the honeymoon’s over, your engine is now whiney, miles per gallon decreases, your vehicle ignores your gentle touch, it starts coughing up fur ball type toxic exhaust emissions, and you start seeking gas stations for the cheapest prices attempting to rectify the excess fuel now required.

Yep, it happens to the best of us, even after we have pampered our vehicle in every way imaginable.

Now, you may be thinking, “yeah, well, so – it is inevitable, just a law of nature when it comes to aging vehicles”. But au contraire mon frere. Quite the opposite!

The culprit responsible for taking the purr out of your engine, the sluggish response, the unhealthy foul emissions, and the decreased miles per gallon is carbon deposits loitering around in your engine!

Carbon deposits, like uninvited guests at any fuel party, create carbon babies during combustion in your engine. Here’s how that happens – all gasoline, diesel, and bio-diesel fuel contain water and sulfur. When water and sulfur meet, they produce sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid not burned off during combustion leaves behind carbon kids, aka carbon deposits.

These little carbon kids cling to life on spark plugs, valves, among many other unsuspecting components in your engine. And not only that, they love those group hugs. So, the end result is an unhealthy engine screaming for help while you are screaming back, “Why can’t you be like you were when we first met?”

Counseling is in order and the Fuel Doctor says, “simply post a ‘No Loitering’ sign for those carbon groupies in your engine”.

It’s easy enough to do – just pop a Power Pill in your tank at each fill up. The Power Pill creates a “police state” where it prevents newborn carbon deposits from forming and removes the fattened toddlers hanging around.

It defends any size engine powered by gas, bio-diesel, or diesel fuel. The size of a penny, known as the UBiee PowerPill, conditions your engine, leaving it purring with a renewed response to your gentle touch, increases your miles per gallon, substantially reduces those hostile emissions, and saves you money – all at the same time.

Now, you will be able to have fun, fun, fun, and no one can take that away!

Dee Scrip is a well known and respected published expert author of numerous articles on Fuel Economy, PowerPill Fe-3, Home Business, Business Opportunities, Fundraising, VoIP, VoIP Security, and other related VoIP issues.

http://www.helpwithfuelprices.com

http://www.free-pc-phone.com

FunFunFun

 
Mopar A-Body Small Block Header Installation PDF Print E-mail
Tuesday, 29 July 2008 05:01

The Mopar (Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth) A-Body (Dart, Duster, Demon, Scamp, etc) engine compartment is rather small. A lot of the work to be done to an engine that is installed takes some tricky manuvering, or shifting the engine around.

Installing headers in an A-Body is a particularly complicated task.

Here"s the sequence to follow to complete this task:

This is easier to do if you have at least one other person assisting you, from the top of the engine.

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Jack up the driver"s side of the car, place a jack stand underneath the driver"s side front.
3. Unbolt the motor mounts (both sides).
4. Place a block of wood on your floor jack, position the jack underneath the oil pan.
5. The passenger"s side header should slide in from underneath without much of a problem. You might have to jack the motor up a bit to get it in, though.
6. Jack up the engine as far as it will go. You can remove the distributor cap to give you some added clearance. BE CAREFUL, the distributor will be pressing against the firewall at this point.
7. Take a break, have a beer.
8. Disconnect the center link from the steering box arm and driver"s side tie-rod.
9. Have a buddy stand on the driver"s side of the engine with a crow bar. Position the crow bar between the motor mount and the engine block.
10. As your buddy pushes the engine as far as he can towards the passenger side of the car, slide in the driver"s side header from underneath the car.
11. Lower the engine down off the jack.
12. Take a break, have a beer. Offer your friend a beer.
13. Bolt the headers up to the engine.
14. Unbolt the headers, you forgot to install the gaskets.
15. Take a break, have a beer. Offer your friend another.
16. Bolt the headers up to the engine.
17. Put the steering linkage back together.
18. Bolt up the motor mounts.
19. Have the front end aligned.

Copyright © 2005 by Mikel Beck. This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it Mikel Beck is the owner of a number of web sites, the latest being The Happy Hour Pub - http://www.happyhourpub.com. His racing web site is http://www.burwoodboysracing.com.

 
The Mysterious Check Engine Light PDF Print E-mail
Thursday, 26 June 2008 02:01

If you have had your car or SUV long enough, that annoying "check engine" light has probably made an appearance on your dash board. The first time I saw it, I popped the hood and "checked" the engine. It seemed ok to me. My car was running fine. So like most experienced car drivers, I ignored it or I tried too. The really insidious thing about that little innocent light is that it really gets to you after a while. After a long drive at night with that light shining at me like a laser beam, I considered putting it out its misery with my tire iron. Which brings up the question, what is it there for. Well here is a basic answer. The "check engine" light is connected to the car"s engine fuel management computer. This is the computer that runs the fuel injectors, reads the engine sensors, etc. The oxygen sensors are used by the ECM to determine how accurately it"s injecting the fuel, and adjusting the way the fuel is injected to compensate for changing conditions. When the computer inside the ECM detects that there is something wrong, the ECM turns on the "check engine" light. For example, a bad sensor or engine operating parameter that exceeds a preprogrammed set point then the ECM turns on the light to let you, the driver, know that something is wrong and needs to be corrected. It doesn’t mean something cataclysmic is about to happen, just that the computer that runs a lot of the functions in your engine is getting some bad information. Most of the time this means an oxygen sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. In a lot of states, your car will not pass the inspection when the light is on. So you have to fix it before you can get a new inspection sticker.

Jason is the webmaster for Red Hill Supply - Online Air Tools

Floor Jacks,Air Tools, and More - Red Hill Supply

 
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